In a soon-to-be-published survey of the top 50 Mexican restaurants statewide, Texas Monthly food editor Patricia Sharpe concludes Texas is shifting from Tex-Mex to Mex-Tex - and one of the best edible examples of the trend is found in Dallas.
According to a teaser for the December issue story, the magazine's top five Mexican restaurants -- in no particular order -- are Fonda San Miguel in Austin; Salsa Fuego in Fort Worth; Hugo's in Houston; SoLuna in San Antonio and Cuquita's in Dallas (Nice how that geographic distribution worked out so fairly, huh?)
Cuquita's is celebrated by Yelpers and my neighbor Robert Wilonsky for its mole, chilaquiles, milanesa and other dishes that don't surface on every queso-stained Tex-Mex menu. "Mexican food is the richest and most dynamic native cuisine in Texas, and it's getting more Mexican all the time," Sharpe writes in her introduction.
Any guesses on other DFW Mex-Mex spots that might make the list?
Enchiladas! Tacos! Guacamole! (and Cochinita Pibil! and Huachinango!) A salsa-drenched survey of the fifty best Mexican restaurants in Texas, including some old favorites, of course (who doesn’t love a plate of flautas and refried beans?), but with special attention paid to the growing number of kitchens, from Houston to Laredo, turning out something new, something fresh, something that can only be called . . . Mex-Tex!
by Patricia Sharpe
With Gini Garcia (San Antonio), June Naylor (Dallas and Fort Worth), and Robin Barr Sussman (Houston)
How things change. When I was a kid growing up in Austin in the fifties, “Mexican food” meant one thing: a Tex-Mex combination platter groaning under yellow-cheese enchiladas, lavalike refried beans, and hamburger-meat tacos in shells fried so hard they could deflect bullets. In the eighties, my friends and I regularly ate our weight in the latest border craze: platters of sizzling fajitas. Last week, at my new favorite taquería, I had a hard time deciding between cochinita pibil (achiote-rubbed pork in a banana leaf) and tlacoyos (masa tarts topped with queso fresco and salsa verde). What is my point, exactly? Just this: Mexican food is the richest and the most dynamic native cuisine in Texas, and it’s getting more Mexican all the time.
Over the decades a tide of immigrants from south ...